Ride that sloper!

hey

Me and Pete went to quantum today, the conditions we average, the rock was pretty glassy so nothing hard went down, but still managed a couple of cool problems.
1st off Pete was trying everything gone green, so i went up the hill a bit and did 'the limpit' V6, its pretty fun!a sit start on a couple of crimps and then a series of slopers with a weird mantle thing at the top.

We saw Steve 'cone' slinking around the boulders, chalk bag in one hand, doobie in the other.haha.He tryed quantum mechanics with me, I was just an inch short of the hold, but will go one day when i man up. Steve said hes coming up north next week or something.
Then to the project wall, I thought i'd better have another go at snake eyes since I havn't in a while. Armed with a new sequence for the sloper I got so close!hit the lip of the final jug!then the next go I got a flapper on the side of my finger from the left start pocket, and couldn't do the move with tape on.Next time though!

We finished up on the ode to joy boulder I had a vague attempt at bio hazard, but was too cold (damn wind!). So went around the other side where it was a bit more sheltered and sent Beached Male V7, its wikkid! You work your way up to the slopers on the lip, throw a heel up and mantle!Before you know it theres a pocket right infront of your face and its over.Quality problem.

Catch ya
James

New stuff...

hey,
started drawing up a guide for the reservoir area today, i put a new section on the side bar for topos, check it out.work in progress obviously.

james

Rad sendage

hey,
Went to quantum and spittle again yesterday. We warmed up near the caffeine wall, did a few classic slabs, a V4 called 'old chimney' which is pretty strange (but cool) and got spanked on a V5 slab.Derek then showed me a 'project' its not really a project, just knowones done it. Its right behind Bliss (a V3 slab), a steap wall with a honeycomb like texture on it. I flashed the stand then added a sit start. (Any suggestions for names would be welcome.)
Derek then cleaned and flashed two other projects, i did one of them, don't know how hard it was, maybe a V6 or something. Pretty cool to do do three new problems in quantum in one day!

I then sent 'Robusta' V8 which Thomas had shown me last week. Holding an undercling in left, jump off the ground to a dimple, then stand up on the foot, grab another dimple and big undercling to finish.

Me and Thomas headed over to Spittle while derek tryed angel of pain. I did Sloper madness V8, again. Thomas was getting super close to pandemonium V8 and taking huge spinning falls from the top move. Then went around to 'the gift' V9, turns out i was doing it the wrong way! off the two underclings to start, i was stacking a mono into the next hold, but its way better sidepulling! (cheers Tom!) So after i sorted out the top move, and a bit of a rest, i sent it!Stoked!
I didnt get any photos, but heres a couple old ones of me on the gift that Will took.
This is the first move off the two underclings, about where my hand is, is the sidepull, thien drop knee and reach over to that crimp, then intermediate left to the ticked sloper at the top.

We then met up with Pete, and watched him send 'continuity' V9, don't know what he was pulling off!Then watched him try everythings gone green, (bev-turns out you just jump off the ground to the big crimp!)Top looks freken hard.

sweet day.

James

no skin left!

Hey, hope ya had a good weekend! Mine was pretty intense with a boulder comp at the roxx on sat night then the hill on sunday.

The comp was ok, cool problems, but being a saturday cut into precious drinking time!haha.
Na it was pretty fun, got soo pumped and screwed my fingers for the hill. But it turned out to be a good day anyway.

We started off around the middle of quantum warming up, then headed over to try anthrax (V8), you pull on these two pockets, get a high step in and turn the left into an undercling, then reach right up to this small sidepull crimp, get your weight on it and grab a pinch, then a horn and pull round the arete, easy slab to finish. I managed to get it, with some helpful beta from the crew.
With not much skin intact, Thomas and I went to have some token attemps at some more problems near the caffine wall, then headed over to recover and watch Derek on angel. Got a cool photo of him pressing out the mantle:

We went for a wander around Dark Castle scouting future classic problems, but to no avail. So back to the project wall in quantum to finish up.

Another beautiful day, from the top of DC:

I jumped on snake eyes to see how it felt, but too warm and weak. Then onto Dismantle (V8) , which Lewis and I were trying last weekend. I got the key beta from Derek and desperatly sent it! You pull onto a sloping ledge, get a shitty smear with right foot, then lunge for a flat sloper, left foot on the ledge, and rock over. Its a really cool line!

So it was a pretty successful weekend for me, now onto recovery during the week!

have a good one

James

Updated Web Links on the Blog

Good work James and Lewis on dominating the Hill in the name of H-town.

Anyways - I've updated the weblinks on the blog with links to the Castle Hill and Flock Hill blogs, JP's Wellington Bouldering site, Mojozone, NZAC, and Neils cheap climbing shoes site for your web surfing pleasure!

Also - here's a random photo of me running a waterfall on the Wairoa River last year whilst being watched by a plastic sheep..... Good Times!

hard grit styles at the hill!

hey
I showed lewis the castle hill yesterday, started him on the classic lung dyno, he adapted quickly and before i knew i he was burning me off sending 'gripper' (V7) quickly and flashed 'Tuppi master' (V7). I got in a little sandbagging of my own putting him on the unrepeatable and 'bliss' (V3 slab of death). He also sent beautiful edges(V4) and one move boulder (V6). I managed to get rocket pants (V6).

Throwing down on gripper

crimping the beautiful edges

lewis trying rocket pants at the project wall

james

Extra Waitomo Photos from the Weekend

Hey ya, uploaded a few more photos of "Armed Offenders Squad", V7 for everyone to enjoy

James getting ready to reach out.


Note the heal/toe action. He pulled that one straight out of his handbag of tricks.


Fingers of power!

Me having a crack...but no luck today...
From here to the top!

New Problems

On friday me and bev went to the resovoir, did 6 or so warm ups to the boulders on the way down to the resovoir. I then continued to flash and downgrade the test peice, resovoir dogs (now V5). And get spanked on tank top. Anyway...On the way back, i sent a V6 (i think), needs a repeat, on the resovoir warm up boulders, called 'got dirt?'Its pretty cool, got kind of a mantle/press out top out.

On sat, Addison, Matt and I went to the same place and added a couple more warm ups, including an awesome fin/slab top, called escargot V2/3. Then we stopped off at daves long standing project at the alchemy wall, which turned out to be quite tricky, so i manned up and snaked it, (SFA). Armed Defenders V7. Its got awesome moves!

Dave got some cool photos so ill leave it to him to post 'em.

peace out

New Problems at Waitomo

Oh yeah it was good another day at the Airstrip with Matt, James “da Bogan” and me. James took us on a little tour to show some of the new problems out past the Totem Pole put up by him and Bevan on Friday. Some super nice moderate lines as per Jame's post. Good work boys!

We then cleaned a couple of new lines – a nice and super easy and interesting arête problem and a V2/V3 face/slab problem called “Escargot” because of the ton's of snails hanging around at the base. Pull on and throw to the jug in the middle then step up, get your balance and reach for the top and over you go.

Matt cranking out on a new arete problem Me reaching up for and big fat grab of nothing on Escargot!

Slab to top out! Wikkid.

I then made a mistake and showed James a project and what happens – he distracted me and snaked the first ascent……cheeky little mulletet bugger. Oh well, it was too hard for Matt and I and James was firing so he did it in good style to produce “Armed Offenders Squad”, (get the name right James you fool) tentative grade V7 located between the Alchemy and Below Alchemy Walls. A tricky start and then traverse out and then throw to glory and the top out holds! Will be a good addition for the next NBS.

Matt giving it a crank Cranking, but about to fall off....
James showing us how it's done! Pow! Right in the kisser!

I had some more photos but this stupid blog site won't let me post them in this posting cause they must be too hard core for the site. I'll try to post them again later ok!

After that action we went for a wander and bumped into the Bad Boy Barratts who where slinking around looking for fist jams and ledges to take a crap off. Bad Boys! We then had a crack at "Steves V6" over at the North face which we all (apart from James who didn't bother) got spanked on and I nearly broke my thumb on (still sore today...) Something for next time ok.
Oh yeah – happy 30th to Matt for the 4th of September as well! Go you old bugger go!

D

Redneck yall!

due to popular demand...