Monday, October 30, 2006

blog access

How does the blog members access thing work? I know its "H-town Massive" but how many of us actually hang in Hams anywayz!?

Here's my point. Theres this fella I know who's from Palmy, i dont know if anyones met him: Matti Natti, an american fella. He's on the cover of the airstrip comp guide.
He's done a bit of bouldering around waitomo and is real keen to develop stuff and reckons he's cleaned and sent some new lines around the strip. I've climbed with him a few times out there and he's a top bloke, really enthusiastic and onto it.

Anyways can he get onto the blog? I reckon he could offer heaps. He's keen as into bouldering and climbing and not into bullshit.
I know he would be keen as to hook up with yous that are in the know for bouldering around waitomo.He's also just mentioned a solid new bouldering area near Napier which sounds wicked!

Wednesday, October 25, 2006

More midweek bouldering action

Had another great evening at the hill today. Perfect weather!


I was making good progress on the 'outcast' finally (nails for midgits!), and also 'energy follows thought' where I was up at the slopers. Needed to be a bit colder though.
Then I went to finish off 'Fatwa' (V7) which i had pussyed out from a couple weeks ago cause i smacked my eye on the rock after falling from the mantle. But after a couple trys my foot stuck for the mantle and i sent.
I got this photo with self timer.

Sticking the first move.

Once the sun went down, I tryed 'karmageddon'. Getting closer, weather needs to be colder and I need to be stronger to pull up to the high foot.

james

Tuesday, October 17, 2006

Screw studying!

After studying all day, Pete and I went out to the hill in the evening to take advantage of the cold weather.
Got out there at 5, and warmed up behind the horseshoe boulder, Pete groveled the 'table traverse made of rock' called 'loop' (V8).
The sun was starting to go down behind the range, so it was time for sending.
Having sent 'Everythings gone green' (V10) on sat, Pete went to try the V11 low start, and I started chalking the slopers (token chalking as i had none) on sloper groper (V9), which Derek had shown me on sat.
The slopers felt much better with the cold temps, and I was linking the moves, falling on the last a hand full of times.
Then it all feel together and i sent!Wickid!

Sunset at Spittle

Stopped at spittle on the way back, Pete tryed Scoop doggy dog (think thats what its called) (V10) and was making some headway.
Got back to the car at 8:30, so had a good 3 1/2 hours on the rock, well worth the trip out.

james

Monday, October 16, 2006

Paynes rad ticks...?

I'm probably going to paynes mid january, and starting to get excited already.
Whats some must tick lines 25-27 to suit my unskilled thuggish technique? So far I've been told to attack Mea Culpa and I think i wanna try Creative confusion but dont know shit about it.

Anyone else heading to golden bay? come on dudes

Saturday, October 07, 2006

Snakes and ladders

Buff dan, Rachael, Jamie, Pete and I were at quantum today. It was a good day filled with sunburns and sending!

I met up with them at the horseshoe boulder warming up. Then headed over to gripper, where Pete and Dan laid the smack down. Just around the corner is 'Kung fu mojo' (V6) which i flashed, can't remember who else did it again, I think Pete and Dan. To the left is 'Growler' (V6), it's another mantle test piece, it was a desperate send! One of those ones where you bounce up. Pretty fun.

Dan managed to get 'the outcast' (V9) pretty quickly after some key beta from Pete. Wikkid line, big moves on relatively good holds.

We got spanked on 'monkey and the magic peach' (V8), Pete made some good progress on his first two attemps though.

After lunch i headed over to snake eyes while the others were trying Pete's new problem (can't remember what its called). Took me a fair few goes, but i finally stuck the dyno and sent! Pete gave me some good beta for the sloper last week which helped heaps.
I got a couple of pics using self timer, hence not the best layout. (and whats up with the new photo resizing thing?! it doesn't keep them the right dimentions, anyway...)



Afterwards Jamie showed me some more classic mantles, 'Big bubba the buddha' (V6) which Jamie got a flash repeat and i got it 2nd go. 'Small balls' (V6), took me a while to work out the best postion for me, but got it in the end. Jamie then sent his nemesis mantle 'push me pull me' (V6), so that was pretty cool.

I finished off with a couple of pre reqs.

J